When thinking about which wine to crack open on a hot summer’s afternoon, most of us immediately reach for a zesty, light bodied white or rosé. For one reason or another, red wine is more commonly associated with the winter months. In many cases this is perfectly sensible. A firm, full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon, necessarily served at room temperature, isn’t particularly appealing in the raging inferno of a West Country summer. One thing we can all agree on is when it’s hot, we like cold drinks. So let’s look at what chilling a wine does.
Simply put, it alters how wine tastes by changing our sensitivity to its constituent parts: alcohol, flavour, acid, tannin and bitterness. As a general rule, chilling a wine decreases our sensitivity to alcohol, while increasing sensitivity to, tannin and bitterness. Fruit and floral flavours are enhanced as they tend to have lower volatility than other aroma compounds and therefore shine on their own. Therefore, chilling your brooding Cab Sauv to 10℃ will destroy its balance and leave you with an overly astringent, bitter mess on the palate – although it will be more fruity. Chill a bottle of Beuajolais slightly and not only does it cool you down but the fresh, fruity flavours are elevated. Being low in tannin means it doesn’t become overly astringent. Any of you who have drunk a warm glass of Chablis know it is the same in reverse!
The following reds are brightly fruited, light in tannin and have good acidity, meaning a light chill (~14℃) in the fridge or ice jacket will see them at their best:
Strange Kompanjie Cinsault, Paarl, South Africa – £12.95
Cinsault achieves its true potential when its vines have reached full maturity and naturally produce lower yields. This super example, from 30 year old, dry-farmed bush vines is packed full of bright, crunchy red berry fruit, tangy acidity and sweet spice. It is thirst quenching, bright and beautifully balanced. A superb summer red.
Domaine Cheysson Chiroubles, Beaujolais, France – £18.50
Beautifully perfumed nose. Juicy and lively with fresh cherries, strawberries, bramble, rose and tobacco. On the palate these flavours persist accompanied by a trace of white pepper on the finish. The tannins, while present, are soft and unobtrusive, lending structure. There is real depth and concentration here. Chiroubles is arguably the “most Beaujolais” of Bojos and this in turn is a classic example of the type.
Daniel Fries “Vom Schiefer” Pinot Noir, Mosel, Germany – £23.95
Silky, elegant and feminine. Incredibly pale ruby. A seductive perfume of red cherries, ripe strawberries with a subtle herbaceouness. The palate is velvety and incredibly fresh with more red berry fruit and rose petal. Long finish. Grown on the slate soils surrounding Winningen. Bottled unfiltered and unadulterated.
Scheid Family “District 7” Pinot Noir, Monterey, California, USA – £19.95
A textbook, cool climate Monterey Pinot Noir. Pronounced aromas of black cherries, red and black currants and raspberries with notes of violets, vanilla and toasty oak. The palate is rich, soft and silky with a lingering finish. The perfect wine to serve with salmon, pork, lamb or soft cheeses.
